CKCSCR, Inc.

Crate Training 101

Crate training is very effective for housebreaking a puppy (or adult dog) because it takes advantage of dogs’ natural aversion to soiling in their own den. Dogs like to have a cozy space they can call their own, and, when introduced properly, dogs will almost always come to like their crate, napping in it voluntarily and viewing it as a safe haven.

To begin crate training, you need to buy a crate or two. It is recommended that you buy 2 so you don’t have to move the crate from the kitchen or family room in the day into your room at night. The nighttime crate can be puppy size and either plastic or metal and is useful for having the puppy sleep in a family member’s room at night. Whether or not you intend to have your new pup sleep in your room long-term, initially it is recommended to have them in the room with you for psychological adjustment and security and for housebreaking (your puppy may need to take an outside bathroom break in the middle of the night and you’ll need to hear him/her to know this).

The primary crate intended for long-term use is best placed in the kitchen or family gathering room. It is recommended that you get a crate that will fit the dog when he/she is an adult. It is essential though that you block off much of the crate using dividers that are sold for this purpose or with a homemade barrier such as a box or pillows or other means such that the puppy has only enough room during the housebreaking process to stand up, sit down, and lie down comfortably in the crate. For the long-term crate, we recommend metal crates from Midwest because they are sturdy and easy to clean. Depending on the size of your puppy, you may either want to get a crate that is 24 x 36 x 28, or 28 x 42 x 32 to accommodate for his or her size when full grown. To give the pup a sense of security, we recommend covering the crate (except the front portion) with a washable tablecloth or other washable covering.

The crate should have a nice washable soft pad, a safe toy, and a small, soft towel bunched up. We recommend initially using light colored bedding or plush white towels so it is easy to tell if any soiling has occurred. Do not force the puppy in or out of the crate, as you want the puppy to view the crate positively. Find a treat that the puppy loves (a bit of hot dog or cooked chicken for example), let the pup smell the treat, and then toss the treat into the crate for the puppy to eat. Do not shut the door at this point. Get the puppy used to the crate by repeating this process. Then, put the pup in the crate with the door shut, but stay in the room talking with the pup. Then get the pup used to being crated when you are out of the room for brief periods and so on. There are many good books that detail crate training, but basically, until the puppy is trained to go outside to do his/her business reliably, he or she should be in the crate whenever you cannot closely supervise the pup. Keep in mind though that this should not exceed 2-3 consecutive hours unless it is overnight. To housebreak the dog using crate training:

(1) Take the puppy out to the same spot on a leash shortly after eating or drinking. The time period will vary depending on your dog, the age of the pup, and the food the pup is eating. Try to keep your pup on a consistent schedule of eating and drinking so he or she and you develop predictable routines.

(2) Take the puppy out to the designated bathroom area shortly after playing or after having a chew toy for a bit. Also, be alert and take the pup out any time you see the pup sniffing the floor a lot or circling and other behaviors that you will come to associate with your pups need to go outside.

(3) Develop some cue for the puppy to let you know when he or she needs to go outside (i.e. going to the door or ringing a bell hung by the door), attach a phrase to fit (“outside?”) and reward the dog with praise when he or she uses the cue. Similarly, when the dog is outside preparing to do his/her business, sniffing and pacing back and forth, use a voice command such as "hurry up,” said softly so eventually he or she will go on command. As your pup begins to do his/her business, praise the pup using a higher than normal pitched voice. When the pup finishes, give the pup a small treat. Then, take your puppy inside for some playtime. Don't let the puppy frolic outside until he or she has done their duty and is on the way to being fully trained because you want the pup to associate outside initially with housetraining (“inside = play and sleep; outside = doing my business”).

(4) Do not punish the puppy for accidents. Puppies will have accidents, and often so will dogs coming into a new home, especially in the first few weeks, and these most often are the result of not being properly supervised. Also, remember that puppies do not have great impulse control. That means that they may have been outside 10 minutes ago and done nothing and then come in, ran around a bit, and eliminated on your carpet, looking at you in all innocence. Don’t take it personally. If you take your puppy out to do his or her business and the puppy did not do this, place the puppy back in the crate, and try a bit later. It is very easy to have a few good days of no accidents and get lulled into believing that your puppy is housetrained. While the puppy will develop physical and mental control in this regard and accidents will happen less and less frequently, they can happen up to 6 or 7 months old. If you catch your puppy directly in the act, give a sharp “No” while clapping your hands together once (this often stops the elimination). Scoop your puppy gently up, take the puppy outside to the appropriate place, and encourage him or her to finish their business. Praise them and treat as always. If you find that your pup has eliminated in your home and you have not caught him or her at the moment this is happening, do not punish the puppy, as they won’t have any idea what is bothering you. Quietly clean up the mess making sure to use an enzyme- based product like “Nature's Miracle” or “Simple Solutions” and resolve to watch the pup more carefully in the future.

(5) At first, the puppy should be crated anytime you cannot directly supervise him or her. In the first week or two, you may find it helpful to leash the puppy to you when you are home, using the crate for when you go out without the puppy. Gradually, time outside the crate and off the leash can be increased and the puppy can gain greater freedom. While most of the pup’s time will be in the main family gathering area, also introduce your pup to each room of your house to which he/she will have access long-term. Spend time in each room playing with your pup on the floor and tossing the occasional treat so the pup associates the spaces in your home with play and food, and views them as part of his or her den. As your pup develops greater mental and physical control and learns the difference between outside and the rest of their new "den", unsupervised time and access to more areas of the house can be increased. So, for example, when you are unable to directly supervise your pup initially, you may start with the puppy crated. Then, as the puppy becomes housetrained, he/she might progress to a puppy playpen, then to being gated in the kitchen, to eventually having run of the house.